Tips and Advice For A Happy Horse

Bonding with your horse will allow you to learn and respond to his feelings and reactions in different situations. Over time you will be able to read their body language. A calm and responsive horse is generally a happy one. They will keep their head lowered, and have soft eyes and a relaxed jaw. A horse when happy will not invade your personal space – this is a sign of respect in seeking affection from you. A horse is not showing he is bored by yawning – rather this is a sign of relaxation and calm. If your horse is holding its head high with a tense jaw and has darting eyes and a reluctance to stand still, then there is something wrong – he is not comfortable. When a horse is anxious, you must let him settle in his own time without trying to force the issue – otherwise he could end up feeling trapped and even more stressed.

When grooming your horse you also get the opportunity to check him over for minor ailments or other problems. You should perform regular inspections of your horse’s teeth, eyes, hooves and shoes as well as keeping an eye on his droppings. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. Your vet will be able to advance book the appropriate appointments for regular worming and vaccinations. Worms and parasites can build up immunity to medication so to minimise this you should rotate the medications. Your horse could develop immune system, heart or colic problems as a result of unsuitable medication. Make sure you have asked your vet to administer influenza, encephalitis and rhinoneumonitis vaccinations. Tetanus and rabies are also advisable, but not essential. If you are a regular with the horse trailers at horse shows etc, your horse may need to show a negative Coggins test, which is for a serious equine virus called equine infectious anaemia (EIA) for which there is no cure or treatment.

An important part of keeping a horse happy and comfortable is making sure you have a good farrier who visits regularly. Long and imbalanced feet will soon cause discomfort to a horse and both mood and performance will be affected. Remember that if your horse’s feet are not taken care of properly that this could lead to bigger problems requiring veterinary treatment – if you are negligent whether interntionally or otherwise you will probably find that your horse insurance will not cover the cost of treatment.Your farrier will need to trim your horse’s hooves every six weeks or so.

During wet and cold weather you should provide a blanket or coat for your horse, and in the summer he will need a fly-protective sheet. If your horse lathers up during or after exercising, it’s best to use a horse cooler until they have calmed and cooled down. While it may seem logical to give your horse a drink after exercise, this could in fact put his body into shock. It is also important to let your horse cool down properly after exercise and before feeding. Leave it for an hour after meals before exercising your horse.

Horses are happiest when they know that they have a purpose – this could be showing, jumping or therapy, for example. Horses love to be needed. A horse needs to feel a purpose and that everything is ok – a young horse in particular should be praised often even for simply standing still. Horses are also inquisitive, so by introducing new experiences to them, the more positive, confident and brave they will become.

Horses are wonderful creatures that deserve all the love and care you can give. As a horse owner you have a responsibility to provide the best healthcare possible for your equine companion. Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. Providing the very best for your horse will reap you the rewards of love, loyalty and devotion from your equine companion.

Horse Tack: Getting Ready To Ride

Learning to tack a horse can be challenging at first. But with an established routine, both you and your horse will quickly know what what to expect. Having your horse secured with a set of crossties that fasten to the halter from opposite sides at about normal head height is really helpful as this leaves the rider with both hands to work with the tack.

Don’t just throw your saddle on and ride. First check your horse over for any injuries that might have happened since your last visit. Run your hand down each of your horse’s legs. Pick our each hoof, checking for stones and any soreness. Doing this will prevent the chance of riding with a rock in your horse’s foot and risking lameness. It also a good opportunity to check out your horse’s hoofs and whether his shoes are secure. Once you’ve finished with the legs and hooves, the next step is to give your horse’s torso a good brushing. Ther are a variety of brushes you can use, but the goal is to get rid of all of the loose, dead hair and any dirt or other debris that could irritate your horse when you place the saddle and saddle pad on.

Since the halter is securing the horse to the crossties, you may want to start with the saddle. Place the saddle pad or blanket straight down on the horses back, just on the highest point of the withers and slide it straight back a fraction of an inch to position it. This ensures that the hair is all flat, if you have to reposition the blanket lift it off the horse, smooth down the hair again with a brush or your hand, then start over.

With the saddle pad or blanket in place, pick up the saddle with your left hand on the horn or pommel and the left hand under the back skirt or the cantle, depending on the saddle type. Make sure you’ve secured the stirrups before placing the saddle. Then place the saddle in the center of the pad just back of the withers. Horse’s have a natural depression in their back which is where the saddle should be placed. If you have a western style saddle, reach under the horse’s belly and grasp the cinch, make sure it is straight and tighten the saddle from the left side. With an English saddle you may need to walk around to the right side and affix the cinch, then move back around to the left to tighten it.

Because of prior bad handling, many horses can be challenging to bridle. This can be corrected by slow and gentle movements, so always move with a purpose and don’t become excited or angry with the horse. Unbuckle the throatlatch and noseband if there is one, then standing in the same direction as the horse on the left side, hold the bit in your left hand and the top of the bridle in your right. Gently bring the top of the bridle up to the top of your horse’s head. This will position the bit just below his lips. Lift the top up and over the ears while gently inserting the bit. Position both the bit and the headstall in the right place, then latch the throatlatch and noseband. Avoid at all cost hitting your horse’s teeth with the bit. It’s painful and will cause him to be reluctant to be bridled in the future.

Mounting and dismounting should be done in a smooth, fluid manner without excessively yanking on the horse. With the reins in your left hand, grasp your horse’s mane in your right hand. Using the right hand to hold the stirrup, place your left foot in the stirrup, swing your body up and your right leg up and over the back of the horse, gentle sitting down into the saddle. Put the right foot in the right stirrup and you are all ready to go.