Horse Nutrition – Where to Begin

Though you might feel this is a straightforward thing to achieve – feed your horse – you would be amazed at the quantity of horse owners that don’t appreciate the essentials.  There is no factual rule of thumb for feeding, as all horse’s nutritional wants will vary depending on age, mass and amount of activity.

To start out with, your horse naturally uses fodder as a basic constituent of their diets. It is likely one of the MAJOR requirements for any properly working digestive system. When we speak of forage, we usually mean natural pasture and cut hay.

Mature horses usually eat in the region of 2 to 2.5 % of their body mass in feed every day. So a 1,000 pound horse will eat approximately 20 to 25 lbs of feed per day. Therefore premium feed, not low quality high fibre feed (that may interfere with proper digestion).

In an ideal pasture planet, your horse should consume at least 1 percent of its body weight in hay/pasture forage daily. If your horse does not do much work, they’ll do nicely on strictly forage, without grain scattered in.  On the other hand, developing, in breed, or operational horses will need to have supplements along with forage – for example grain or a supplemental concentrate.  Consider it in this way, forages ought to supply at least one half or more of the full mass of the feed consumed on a daily basis for optimum growth and development.

Before you can feed a well balanced “meal” for a horse, you have to know the nutrient content and quality of your forage. When you know that, it is easy to determine the best quantities of each to satisfy nutrient requirements.

The best source, and the least high-priced one for summer feed is your pasture.  And, usually good pasture by itself can offer all the nutritional requirements your horse needs.  How do you figure out just how much pasture is needed to provide for a horse?  Here’s a approximate guideline to help you: (using a weight of 1,000 – 1,200 lbs)

Mare and foal 1.75 to 2 acres
Yearlings 1.5 to 2 acre
Weanlings 0.5 to 1 acre

Winter feed needless to say will be cut hay, and again, high quality if you can offer it.  It needs to be cut early, be leafy and green in color and as free as achievable of dust, moulds, weeds and stubble.  This feed is often full of protein, minerals and vitamins.

Yes, you may want to use alfalfa hay, but be careful about the higher protein content in case you are giving to young growing horses, as it may contain an unnecessary quantity of calcium in correlation to phosphorus.  A lot of calcium is absolutely not good for rising horses.  If you’re not sure about hay quality, have it analyzed.

If you are presently looking for horses for sale or ponies for sale, please visit The Horse and Pony Directory.

A History of the Throughbred Horse

Ancestry of the Thoroughbred horse:
This form of horse was originally bred in England due to the English horsemens need to have a swift race horse. There are three that began this bloodline which are: Byerley Turk, Darley Arabian and Godolphin Arabian, all named after their respective owners, Thomas Darley, Lord Godolphin and Captain Robert Byerley. Each and every one of these stallions were brought to the United Kingdom from the Mediterranean Middle Eastduring 1670 and 1710. The conclusion was a horse that could carry weight with sustained speed over extended distances. Approximately 9/10 of new thoroughbreds have derived from Eclipse whose grandsire was Darley Arabian, who never lost in eighteen races. This started a very selective breeding practice which has been going on for all but 250 years, producing the finest race horses, giving them superiority and brilliance on the race track.

Near the turn of the 1700′s, breeding accounts for Thoroughbred horses were sparse and regularly imperfect, and many times, they would not refer to a horse before the young horse had proven themself commendable. A gentleman called James Weatherby, through his own inquiries and relentless work, and by the collection of his own privately kept pedigree reports published the foremost volume of the General Stud Book. He did this in 1791. The foremost publication listed 387 mares, every one of which could be traced back to Eclipse. The General Studbook is still available in the United Kingdom by Weatherby and Sons. Many years afterward, as thoroughbred racing proliferated in North America the need for a pedigree registry for American Bred Thoroughbreds, akin to the General Stud Book became clear.

In 1873, the foremost American Stud Book was printed by Colonel Sanders D. Bruce. This man spent practically a lifetime researching the pedigrees of American Throughbred horses. He continued the example of the General Stud Book producing six volumes of the register up until 1896 when the project was taken over by The Jockey Club. The accuracy of the American Stud Book is the flagstone on which all Thoroughbred horse racing in North America depends. The foremost edition of the American Stud Book produced by The Jockey Club had a foal crop of close to 3,000. In 1986 in had risen to an amazing 51,000. Nowadays The Jockey Club operates a complicated new digital system to meet the registration challenges posed by the massive amount of annual registrations. The Jockey Club owns and operates one of the most advanced computer systems in the world today, with its catalog holding over 1.8 million thoroughbred horses on a master pedigree record, with names that trace back to the 1800′s. As well as bloodlines, this computer database also deals with daily racing outcomes of all Thoroughbred race in North America, not including the capability to handle digitally sent pedigree and racing data from the UK, Ireland, France and other principal Thoroughbred districts. An additional descendant of Darley Arabian is Diomed; who won the first running of the Kentucky Derby in 1780. At 21 years of age he was brought over to the US where he created the male line through his son, Sir Archie.

Thoroughbreds are the horse of choice for track racing. Most thoroughbreds are born between January and April, but their certified date of birth is January 1 of the current year. Throughout their first year of development, they are increasing size and muscle with the adolescent commencing his training as a yearling. Throughbred horses learn to take a bridle and a saddle and soon after a rider on his back to break the horse ready for the starting gate and the race around the track.

For more information and horses for sale, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Horse Trailer Buying Tips

When choosing a new horse trailer, there are various features to consider. One crucial feature is whether the horse trailer will be of a bumper pull or gooseneck design. There are many reasons why you might gain from either type. Below we will look at the two designs and explain a little further.

Bumper Pull Trailers – Advantages and Disadvantages
Bumper pull trailers, also known as tag-along layouts, are horse trailers that join to a hitch on the pulling vehicle. The trailer simply “tags along” following the hauling vehicle and therefore a part of the whole vehicle.

Good Points
There are many good aspects of bumper pull designs. They generally cost less than a gooseneck design. It’s not required to use a 4×4 pickup for pulling the trailer, as a result more people can haul this type of horsebox with their current vehicle. Turning is often more easily done because the tag-along will follow the line of the towing vehicle. You won’t need as much storage space for the trailer as you would for a gooseneck trailer. And Finally, the trailer doesn’t have to be classified as a “commercial” vehicle for licensing purposes as the combined weight of both the horsebox and towing vehicle is typically under 10,001 pounds.

Negative Points
There are numerous disadvantages as well. Bumper pull trailers do not present as much room for the dressing/tack room. Some bumper pull horseboxes may not be sufficient for hauling more than two horses as a result of the design of hitch needed for the load of the trailer. Also, bumper pull trailers have a tendency to snake on bendy roads, which can be hazardous.

Gooseneck Trailers – Plus and Minus Points
Gooseneck trailers differ from bumper pull trailers in their style of hitch. The gooseneck is joined inside the hauling truck’s load bed with a ball and coupler joint. The gooseneck trailer provides a number of benefits. It doesn’t sway or fishtail like a bumper trailer is likely to, and pulling is more stable. It provides more room for living space, which can be suitable for camping and longer journeys. The gooseneck layout is easier to reverse up to and align with the ball while attaching it to your pulling vehicle, because you can view it easily from the rear window. The gooseneck layout is more safe without the unease of the load coming unhitched while driving anywhere.

Disadvantages
There’s also some issues. Gooseneck trailers cost more and are as a rule larger so they must be pulled with a 4×4 that is capable of pulling it. The hitching design is also more expensive for a gooseneck design. Another negative point is that while hitching the trailer, you must climb into the bed of the truck to finish the attachment. Also, you will need to remove your load top from your 4×4 to tow a gooseneck trailer.

Choosing the Right Style
Whether looking for a bumper pull or gooseneck trailer, you can go on the web to look at several designs of each. If you’re on a tight budget, you can search for used horseboxes for sale and horse trailers for sale to find a bargain. Think about the plus points and negative points of each design prior to buying. For more information and horses for sale, visit the Horse and Pony Directory

 

Tips On Buying Your First Horse

When searching for horses for sale, there are a few points which are worth thinking about in order to make the buying process easier, and to ensure you end up with your perfect horse.

·     No horse is perfect – just make sure that the one you buy has issues that you can put up with and that won’t lessen your enjoyment.

·     Take an expert with you, someone who is informed of your capabilities and strengths. Ideally take someone who is capable of spotting {whether the horse is lame} lameness or illness. Or perhaps your instructor who can tell if the selected horse is suitable for the way you ride – your aptitude and confidence.

·     Always check any relevant papers and passport.  A horse passport is not legal proof that the horse is actually owned by the seller so ask if there is a receipt as proof of purchase. It is against the law to buy or sell a horse that don’t have a passport.

·     Find out if all innoculations are current. A new course of vaccinations can be expensive and take many months to come into effect if you wish to compete.  It will not go down well moving a horse to a new horse if it is carrying an illness with it.

·     Once you have decided the horse is for you, ask a qualified vet to carry out the most thorough inspection that you can afford. Don’t rush or be pressured into buying if you feel you need the horse checked out by your vet.

·     If possible see the horse or pony demonstrating the trials you would like it to do. Having to reschool a horse adds considerably to the cost if you aren’t in a position to do this yourself.

·     Try to negotiate a test period during which the horse can be sent back if it does not suit.

·     Make sure you are realistic when looking to buy a young horse, do you have the required knowledge to bring it on. Another thought is that, a more mature horse may just have the stability and maturity to give you confidence and help you learn you the ropes.

·     Don’t feel you have to buy the first one you visit and don’t be pressurised by the multitudes of other people that are waiting to purchase the horse if you don’t – more than likely this is just a ruse to rush you into an impulse buy. Take your time when buying a horse.

·     Once the sale is agreed take out insurance on the horse before you transport it.  The majority of injuries occur during transit or settling a horse into a new yard with other horses.

·     Trust your judgement – if you think the seller is hiding something from you then they most probably are.

·     Be mindful that your horse is a major investment of both your time and your money – so make sure you have budgeted accurately for all the expenses that you will incur.

Finally, have fun with your new horse and look forward to many hours horse riding together! Click here to see horses for sale online!

English or Western: Which Riding Style is Right For You?

Learning how to ride is a very rewarding experience, but it can often be a bit confusing as to which type of riding is most suited to your goals with regards to what you want to do with your horse. A good place to start is by talking to experienced riders. Find out what they like about each style and see which fits you the best. Becoming competent will take lots of hours in the saddle for either style, and becoming competitive will require even more practice.

If you are going to compete, knowing what you want to do in the competition is essential before choosing a riding style. If you like the more formal style of dressage, hunt seat and saddle seat, than your choice will be the English riding style. On the other hand if you want to compete in less formal events where jeans and western style shirts are the trend then rodeos or trail riding, endurance events, cross country rides, gymkhana, western pleasure riding or any type of working cow horse event then your only option is to learn to ride western style. You can ride for pleasure on the trails with either style of riding.

Besides just what events you can compete in there are also differences to the actual riding styles. Riding the western style is a more casual style designed to allow the rider to ride for hours and hours over varied terrain. The stirrups are longer and the rider sits deep in the seat. Western riding also has the reins held in one hand, leaving the other hand free for using a rope. With English riding the rider has shorter stirrups that keep the rider erect and forward in the saddle with reins in both hands. Some English riding will require double reins, one set to direct the motion of the horse and one set to control the head position. English riding also has several different styles including hunt seat, dressage, saddleseat, and endurance. Each of these disciplines has their own style of tack – a dressage saddle, jumping saddle, all purpose saddle, and so on.

Once you make a decision on which style you prefer, make sure you are wearing proper safety equipment, including a riding helmet. Proper safety equipment is a must for all junior and novice riders. When you select a style you can always decide to learn the other style at a later date, after all your horse can certainly learn another style, but learning both at the same time is overwhelming and can lead to confusion.

Horse Tack: Getting Ready To Ride

Learning to tack a horse can be challenging at first. But with an established routine, both you and your horse will quickly know what what to expect. Having your horse secured with a set of crossties that fasten to the halter from opposite sides at about normal head height is really helpful as this leaves the rider with both hands to work with the tack.

Don’t just throw your saddle on and ride. First check your horse over for any injuries that might have happened since your last visit. Run your hand down each of your horse’s legs. Pick our each hoof, checking for stones and any soreness. Doing this will prevent the chance of riding with a rock in your horse’s foot and risking lameness. It also a good opportunity to check out your horse’s hoofs and whether his shoes are secure. Once you’ve finished with the legs and hooves, the next step is to give your horse’s torso a good brushing. Ther are a variety of brushes you can use, but the goal is to get rid of all of the loose, dead hair and any dirt or other debris that could irritate your horse when you place the saddle and saddle pad on.

Since the halter is securing the horse to the crossties, you may want to start with the saddle. Place the saddle pad or blanket straight down on the horses back, just on the highest point of the withers and slide it straight back a fraction of an inch to position it. This ensures that the hair is all flat, if you have to reposition the blanket lift it off the horse, smooth down the hair again with a brush or your hand, then start over.

With the saddle pad or blanket in place, pick up the saddle with your left hand on the horn or pommel and the left hand under the back skirt or the cantle, depending on the saddle type. Make sure you’ve secured the stirrups before placing the saddle. Then place the saddle in the center of the pad just back of the withers. Horse’s have a natural depression in their back which is where the saddle should be placed. If you have a western style saddle, reach under the horse’s belly and grasp the cinch, make sure it is straight and tighten the saddle from the left side. With an English saddle you may need to walk around to the right side and affix the cinch, then move back around to the left to tighten it.

Because of prior bad handling, many horses can be challenging to bridle. This can be corrected by slow and gentle movements, so always move with a purpose and don’t become excited or angry with the horse. Unbuckle the throatlatch and noseband if there is one, then standing in the same direction as the horse on the left side, hold the bit in your left hand and the top of the bridle in your right. Gently bring the top of the bridle up to the top of your horse’s head. This will position the bit just below his lips. Lift the top up and over the ears while gently inserting the bit. Position both the bit and the headstall in the right place, then latch the throatlatch and noseband. Avoid at all cost hitting your horse’s teeth with the bit. It’s painful and will cause him to be reluctant to be bridled in the future.

Mounting and dismounting should be done in a smooth, fluid manner without excessively yanking on the horse. With the reins in your left hand, grasp your horse’s mane in your right hand. Using the right hand to hold the stirrup, place your left foot in the stirrup, swing your body up and your right leg up and over the back of the horse, gentle sitting down into the saddle. Put the right foot in the right stirrup and you are all ready to go.

English Saddles Aren’t Stuck In the Past

As with any type of technology, English saddle manufacturers continue to strive to enhance and improve on their saddles and tack. Different companies offer different English saddle brands with options for riders from the Pessoa saddles that are treated with vegetable dyes and natural oils to become completely waterproof to the Bates, Collegiate and Wintec line of saddles that have adjustable gullet systems that allow these saddles to be custom fit to any horse.

The specialized systems can also work between these brands, making them a good choice for riders with different types of saddles in their tack room. These advances have improved comfort for both the horse and rider as well and higher performance. Panels that don’t need re-stuffing, found in most Courbette saddles, ensures that you can use your tack on different horses while still maintaining that great fit to eliminate rubbing and irritation for the horse, regardless of the width of his or her back.

Another major change in many of the saddles used in English riding is the change from all leather to synthetic materials. Wintec saddles are the leader in synthetic saddles with all English saddle types now available in durable, waterproof and easy fitting options. These saddles are great for training and also for novice riders and children since they are lightweight and very low care types of saddles. Not all Wintec synthetic English saddles are cheap, but they are high quality and very durable, an excellent investment for novice and experienced riders alike.

The saddle makers who have been areound awhile are experiencing a surge in popularity in both general purpose and competitive saddles. Albion saddles have long been a European and British English saddle, but are now found around the world. These saddles come in a variety of styles from competitive dressage through to all purpose saddles. They are leather, very high quality and designed to allow weight to be equally distributed across the horse’s back, ideal for dressage, equitation and jumping where balance and stability for both horse and rider is essential. Advances in available technology enable saddle designers to really study the points of pressure a saddle places on a horse at rest and in a variety of movement and motion.